Jacob Cats, Spiegel (The Hague, 1632)
An old man tells a young woman that 'beauty is more than skin deep'

Elck spiegle hem selvenDutch
Let everyone look at himself in the mirror.AI-generated
An oval medallion frame set within a rectangular border with spandrel ornaments. Inside, a bedroom interior: at left an old bearded man in a long fur-trimmed gown and cap stands pointing with his right hand toward a young woman; behind him a chair heaped with rich garments, a ruff and a hat. At right the young woman, richly dressed with a large lace collar and elaborate curled hair, sits at a draped dressing table holding a small object; on the table stand an octagonal framed mirror reflecting a face, small boxes, jars, a candle and strings of pearls. Behind her a four-poster bed with heavy curtains; on the back wall hang two small framed portraits of a man and a woman and a round object. A brush or tassel lies on the tiled floor. A banderole at the bottom of the oval carries the motto, with the engravers' signatures at lower left and lower right.

De Oude Man spreeckt GHy die het aerdigh glas, dat by de jonge vrouwen Een spiegel wort genaemt, zijt besich aen te schouwē, Let vry op u gestel, u hayr en gantsch gelaet, Let vry hoe u het oogh, en al het wesen staet, Doch geeft u niet alleen om uwen douck te schicken, Of om gekroont te zijn met bloemen ende stricken, Maer let op u gemoet, oock onder dit beslagh; En leert dat uwe jeught ten goeden dienen magh: Soo u de spiegel seyt dat uwe wangen blosen, En fris en jeugdich zijn, gelijck als verse rosen. V tanden als yvoir, u lippen t'eenemael Gelijck het Indisch lack, of als het root corael; Soo gaet van stonden aen bereyden uwe sinnen, Om mede schoone glans in uwen geest te winnen; Geeft u geheele kracht gants over aen de deugt, Op dat ghy binnen selfs in schoonheyt blincken meugt: Spreeckt dus tot u gemoet: Sal't niet een schande wesen Soo maer dit buyte-vel in ons en wort gepresen? Sal't niet een herten-leet aen al de vrienden zijn, Indien wy maer alleen en hangen aen den schijn? Neen, neen, mijn weerde ziel, wy moeten verder poogen; Wy moeten hooger sien als op den lust der oogen; Wy moeten schoone zijn, en dat aen alle kant, Iae tot de gronden selfs, gelijck een diamant. Zijn in het tegendeel u leden soo geschapen, Dat van u, door het oogh, geen lust en is te rapen; So spreeckt met u gemoet, en maeckt een vast verbondt, Op dat ghy door den geest u schade boeten condt: Gaet oeffent u verstant in alle goede seden, Gaet oeffent uwen mont in alle wijse reden, Gaet çiert het innigh schoon, dat is het beste deel, Dat is voor alle dingh een edel hals-juweel. Men vinter menighmael die sonder schoone wangen, Die sonder witte verw, der menschen herte vangen: » De deught, de reyne deught, is wonder lief-getal, » De deught, de waere deught, is verre boven al.
The Old Man speaks You who are busy looking at the pretty glass that among young women is called a mirror, look freely at your figure, your hair and your whole face; look freely how your eye and your whole appearance stand. Yet do not devote yourself only to arranging your headcloth, or to being crowned with flowers and ribbons, but look also to your mind under all this finery, and learn what may serve your youth for good. If the mirror tells you that your cheeks are blushing and fresh and youthful, just like fresh roses; your teeth like ivory, your lips altogether like Indian lacquer or like red coral; then go at once and prepare your senses, so as to win a fair lustre in your spirit as well; give your whole strength wholly over to virtue, so that you may shine in beauty inwardly too. Say thus to your mind: will it not be a shame if only this outer skin is praised in us? Will it not be a heartache to all our friends if we cling to appearance alone? No, no, my worthy soul, we must strive further; we must look higher than to the delight of the eyes; we must be beautiful, and that on every side, yes, to the very foundation, like a diamond. If, on the contrary, your limbs are so formed that no delight is to be gathered from you through the eye, then speak with your mind and make a firm covenant, that you may make good your loss through the spirit: go and exercise your understanding in all good manners, go and exercise your mouth in all wise speech, go and adorn the inward beauty, that is the best part, that is above all things a noble neck-jewel. One often finds women who without fair cheeks, without a white complexion, capture the hearts of men: virtue, pure virtue, is wonderfully lovable; virtue, true virtue, is far above all.
Twee aenmerckingen op't gebruyck van Spiegels.
Eerste aenmerckinge. HEt ware niet ondienstigh/ na den raedt van eenige/ dat alle Schoolmeesters/ ende andere die haer werck maecken van de jonckheyt te onderwijsen/ veeltijts een Spiegel byder handt hadden/ om daer mede te doen/ gelijck men houdt dat Socrates t'anderen tijden soude ghedaen hebben; De selve (soo ghesyt wort) hadde voor een gewoonte sijne leerlingen veeltijts aen te manen sich dickmaels te spieghelen/ en sich bevindende van schoone gestalte te wesen/ datse alsdan met alle middelen souden betrachten/ ten eynde sy lieden door hare innerlijcke schoonheyt haren uytwendigen stant souden gelijck mogen wesen; en inghevalle yemant sich mismaeckt quame te bevinden/ dat de soodanighe neersticheyt soude aenwenden dat hy sijne uytwendighe leelijckheyt met inwendighe aenghenaemheyt soude sien te boeten.
Socratis doctrinam expressit Ovidius, Si tibi difficilis formam natura negavit Ingenio formae damna repende tuae.
Idem Iam molire animum qui duret, & astrue formam: Solus ad extremos permanet ille rogos.
Idem Non formosus erat, sed erat facundus Ulisses; Attamen aequoreas torsit amore Deas.
Tweede aenmerckinge. HEt gebruyck van de Spiegels is dienstigh voor de jonckheyt/ ten eynde als hier boven is ghesyt: Voor den ouderdom/ om de grijse hayren/ rimpels/ ende andere veranderingen in sijn gedaente dagelijcx te moghen aenmercken/ sonderlinge een afbeelt sijner jonckheyt daer by hebbende/ om door dien middel sijn daghen te leeren tellen en wijs te worden.
Kent u selven. Nederd. Le miroir n'est point flatteur. Franç. Lo que te dixere el espeio No te lo diran en conseio. .i. Spaens. Ce que le miroir te dira, Au conseil on ne te lira. Franç. Donna senza honestâ non fu mai bella. Ital. Ὡς ἡδὺ κάλλος ὅταν ἔχῃ νοῦν σώφρονα. .i. Griecx. Quam grata est forma, cui comes modesta mens! Lat. Beauté sans bonté ne vaut rien. Franç. Il cerchio non fa la taverna. Ital. Tout nostre scavoir gist à cognoistre nostre ignorance, toute nostre perfection à remarquer nostre imperfection. Franç. Pulchrae domus pulcher hospes. Lat. Ein schönen hauß ein schöner wirt. Hoogd. En belle cage, gentil oiseau. Franç.
Two observations on the use of Mirrors.
First observation. It would not be useless, according to the advice of some, that all Schoolmasters, and others who make it their business to instruct youth, should often have a Mirror at hand, in order to do with it as it is held that Socrates did in former times. He (so it is said) had it as a habit often to exhort his pupils to look at themselves in the mirror, and, if they found themselves to be of fair appearance, that they should then strive by every means so that through their inner beauty they might match their outward condition; and in case anyone found himself to be ill-favoured, that such a one should apply such diligence that he might make good his outward ugliness with inward agreeableness.
Ovid expressed the teaching of Socrates: If unkind nature has denied you beauty, make up for the lack of beauty with your talent.
The same: Now build up a mind that will last, and add it to your beauty: that alone endures to the final pyre.
The same: Ulysses was not handsome, but he was eloquent; nevertheless he tormented sea-goddesses with love.
Second observation. The use of Mirrors is serviceable for youth, for the purpose stated above; for old age, in order daily to observe the grey hairs, wrinkles, and other changes in one's appearance, especially when having beside it a portrait of one's youth, in order by that means to learn to number one's days and to become wise.
Know yourself. Dutch. The mirror is no flatterer. French. What the mirror will tell you, they will not tell you in council. Spanish. What the mirror will tell you will not be read to you in council. French. A woman without honesty was never beautiful. Italian. How pleasant is beauty when it has a prudent mind. Greek. How pleasing is beauty that has a modest mind for companion! Latin. Beauty without goodness is worth nothing. French. The hoop (signboard) does not make the tavern. Italian. All our knowledge lies in knowing our ignorance, all our perfection in noticing our imperfection. French. A fine house, a fine host. Latin. A fine house, a fine landlord. High German. In a fine cage, a noble bird. French.
11R512 (woman) looking in a mirror ~ scene symbolizing 'Vanitas'31A231 standing figure31A5111 looking in the mirror; (possibly: contemplation of own beauty)31A51111 reflection (in a mirror)31A51452 perfume bottle31A5462 brush, sponge, etc. (toilet articles)31A611 chamber-pot31AA235 sitting figure - AA - female human figure31AA247 looking over the shoulder - AA - female human figure31D15 adult woman31D16 old man33A35 conversation, dialogue; conversation piece41A211 corridor41A421 curtains41A711 table41A721 chair41A733 chest, coffer41A761 bed41D211(+81) dress, gown (+ men's clothes)41D211(+82) dress, gown (+ women's clothes)41D221(CAP) head-gear: cap41D266 ornaments, jewels41D2661 necklace48C514 picture, painting48C5142 picture within picture51D4(+4) Beauty; 'Bellezza' (Ripa) (+ emblematical representation of concept)52A53(+4) Self-knowledge (+ emblematical representation of concept)57A6(+4) Virtuousness; 'Amor di Virtù', 'Attione virtuosa', 'Guida sicura de' veri honori', 'Virtù', 'Virtù insuperabile' (Ripa) (+ emblematical representation of concept)61B111(+512) anonymous historical person portrayed alone (+ three-quarter view portrait)61BB111(+512) anonymous historical person portrayed alone - BB - woman (+ three-quarter view portrait)86( ELCK SPIEGLE HEM SELVEN) proverbs, sayings, etc. ( ELCK SPIEGLE HEM SELVEN)98B(SOCRATES)51(+0) Socrates uses a mirror to teach youth self-knowledge (+ variant)Additional codes proposed for this emblem, not (yet) part of the indexing.
31A511 mirrorhighThe correlate 'mirror' matches the octagonal framed mirror standing on the dressing table, the central theme of the emblem's commentary on the use of mirrors.
31A51111 reflection (in a mirror)highThe correlate 'reflection (in a mirror)' matches the mirror explicitly shown reflecting a face.
31AA511 mirror - AA - (for) womenmediumThe correlate 'mirror - (for) women' fits the richly dressed young woman seated at her dressing table with mirror, pearls and cosmetic jars.
11R512 (woman) looking in a mirror ~ scene symbolizing 'Vanitas'mediumThe correlate '(woman) looking in a mirror ~ scene symbolizing Vanitas' fits the young woman at her toilet with mirror, jewels and finery, admonished about outward beauty versus inner worth.
52A53 Self-knowledgehighThe correlate 'Self-knowledge' matches the motto and commentary's repeated 'Know yourself' and the mirror as truthful, unflattering revealer of oneself.
98B(SOCRATES)51 Socrates uses a mirror to teach youth self-knowledgemediumThe correlate 'Socrates uses a mirror to teach youth self-knowledge' is precisely the anecdote expounded in the first observation and illustrated by the old man pointing the young woman to her mirror.
31D16 old manhighThe correlate 'old man' matches the bearded old man in fur-trimmed gown who admonishes the young woman, also echoing the commentary on mirrors for old age.
41A76122 four poster bedhighThe correlate 'four poster bed' matches the curtained four-poster bed in the bedroom interior.
11R7 'Vanitas' symbolslowThe correlate ''Vanitas' symbols' may apply to the mirror, candle, jewels and rich garments assembled as reminders of transience and the need to number one's days.
11S711 beauty, 'Pulchritudo' ~ one of the seven gifts of the bodylowThe correlate 'beauty, Pulchritudo' relates to the commentary's insistent theme that outward beauty must be matched by inner virtue.
Suggested relationships between this emblem and adages in Erasmus’ Adagia.
The emblem's motto 'Elck spiegle hem selven' (let everyone mirror himself) is glossed in Cats's own proverb-collection at the foot of the commentary by 'Kent u selven' — the Dutch form of Erasmus's adage Nosce teipsum / Γνῶθι σαυτόν, which is the governing idea of the whole mirror emblem (self-knowledge, counting one's days, seeing one's faults).
Erasmus's essay concludes 'Nihil autem virtute pulchrius, eoque nec amabilius quidquam' (nothing is more beautiful than virtue, and therefore nothing more lovable), which is precisely the closing sententia of the subscriptio: 'De deught, de reyne deught, is wonder lief-getal ... is verre boven al', with the point that plain women win hearts by virtue rather than complexion.
The adage's scene is Plautus' bawd rebuking a naturally pretty girl who asks for white lead (cerussa) and rouge for her cheeks; the emblem's picture and poem place the young woman among cosmetic jars, boxes and pearls while the old man urges her not to trust to paint and finery but to inward beauty.
The moral that outward trappings do not alter one's real nature underlies the emblem's rebuke of clinging to 'dit buyte-vel' (the outer skin) and its appended proverbs 'Il cerchio non fa la taverna' and 'Beauté sans bonté ne vaut rien'.
Record ID: embstma_1288_emblem005
This emblem on the Iconclass site: https://iconclass.org/view/embstma_1288_emblem005
Copy: University Library, Glasgow, Stirling Maxwell 1288